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Marni and McDreamy

February 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

Thursday was a good day because the sun was shining, I bought a Marni blouse at discount and the actor Patrick Dempsey was in my future.

I managed to scare up a little time to visit the Marni outlet at #1 via Tajani. Apparently, pretty much every other editor designated the same window of opportunity as Marni time. The place was lively and it was stuffed to the gills with merchandise from the last several seasons. While most of the merchandise - from clothes to sunglasses - is from the women's collection, there is a small selection of Marni menswear as well.


Patrick Dempsey at Versace dinner (Reuters/Allesandro Garafalo)


The "Grey's Anatomy" star was the guest of honor at a Versace dinner following the presentation of the fall '08 collection. Dempsey is the "face" of their new advertising campaign. I had a few moments with Dempsey during the cocktail hour and he remarked on how impressed he was to learn that the Versace family has dressmaking and tailoring deep in its family tree. Mama Versace was, I believe, a dressmaker with her own shop.

Dempsey was quite the charmer and his wife was equally as lovely. I did not, however, feel that his wife and I'd established enough of a bond during our five minute conversation to exclaim: You just had twins! How the heck do you look so svelte?!

Dempsey said he'd been a fan of Versace menswear even before he'd signed on to represent the brand. Of course, I was highly skeptical. But his manager, who was one of the guests at my table during dinner, assured me that really, Dempsey had worn Versace to various award shows, events, etc. So ok, we'll take them both at their word.

I only wish that everyone could have a chance to dine chez Versace. First of all, the food was spectacular. I wish I could tell you what it was other than saying it was pasta and fish, followed by a chocolate/hazelnut dessert and washed down with good wine and champagne. And more champagne. The place wasn't loaded with gold leaf and Medusa heads. It is quite understated but very grand. The room was filled with candlelit tables and low arrangements of pale pink and white roses. Gorgeous.

Donatella is looking so svelte these days I honestly wondered if she'd had a rib removed to get such an hourglass shape. Perhaps it's the magic of a Versace frock? If that's the case, the Versace boutique will be my next pitstop.

Marni and McDreamy

February 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

Thursday was a good day because the sun was shining, I bought a Marni blouse at discount and the actor Patrick Dempsey was in my future.

I managed to scare up a little time to visit the Marni outlet at #1 via Tajani. Apparently, pretty much every other editor designated the same window of opportunity as Marni time. The place was lively and it was stuffed to the gills with merchandise from the last several seasons. While most of the merchandise - from clothes to sunglasses - is from the women's collection, there is a small selection of Marni menswear as well.


Patrick Dempsey at Versace dinner (Reuters/Allesandro Garafalo)


The "Grey's Anatomy" star was the guest of honor at a Versace dinner following the presentation of the fall '08 collection. Dempsey is the "face" of their new advertising campaign. I had a few moments with Dempsey during the cocktail hour and he remarked on how impressed he was to learn that the Versace family has dressmaking and tailoring deep in its family tree. Mama Versace was, I believe, a dressmaker with her own shop.

Dempsey was quite the charmer and his wife was equally as lovely. I did not, however, feel that his wife and I'd established enough of a bond during our five minute conversation to exclaim: You just had twins! How the heck do you look so svelte?!

Dempsey said he'd been a fan of Versace menswear even before he'd signed on to represent the brand. Of course, I was highly skeptical. But his manager, who was one of the guests at my table during dinner, assured me that really, Dempsey had worn Versace to various award shows, events, etc. So ok, we'll take them both at their word.

I only wish that everyone could have a chance to dine chez Versace. First of all, the food was spectacular. I wish I could tell you what it was other than saying it was pasta and fish, followed by a chocolate/hazelnut dessert and washed down with good wine and champagne. And more champagne. The place wasn't loaded with gold leaf and Medusa heads. It is quite understated but very grand. The room was filled with candlelit tables and low arrangements of pale pink and white roses. Gorgeous.

Donatella is looking so svelte these days I honestly wondered if she'd had a rib removed to get such an hourglass shape. Perhaps it's the magic of a Versace frock? If that's the case, the Versace boutique will be my next pitstop.

Super Heroes and Super Surprises

February 21st, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

I was struck dumb at the Prada show on Tuesday night when, lo and behold, who should come walking down the runway but the model Jourdan Dunn. Black girl walking! During all the brouhaha in New York over the lack of black models on the runway, much of the blame - fairly or unfairly - was laid at the feet of Miuccia Prada. She was among the first designers to prefer a homogenous runway, in which the clothes registered on the audience but not the people wearing them. We're keeping hope alive for the possible integration of the Jil Sander runway next season.

Wednesday morning I tried to jolt myself awake with a very large mug of espresso. The charming waiter tried to explain to me that the coffee that goes in the big cup is the watered down American version, but I was having none of that. I think I might have had a quadruple shot of espresso. All I can say is caffeine is not all that. I could have used a chaser of Red Bull and a big bowl of sugary cereal.


Costume Institute exhibition co-chairs Anna Wintour and Giorgio Armani (REUTERS/Stefano Rellandini )


The need to energize came about because I was headed to an 8:30 a.m. preview of the upcoming exhibtion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. The exhibition, "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy," opens in May and the accompanying swanky party will be co-chaired by Vogue's Anna Wintour. The honorary chair is Giorgio Armani, who is also the lead sponsor of the exhibit.

The Costume Institute's curator Harold Koda had flown in with some frocks from the exhibition and to talk a bit about what everyone could expect. He brought along a Batman costume from the upcoming film "The Dark Knight" as well as superhero-inspired garments from designer Bernhard Willhelm, John Galliano and Armani. The exhibition sounds particularly interesting because it will be both literal and conceptual. So it will look at the costumes of superheroes such as Batman, the Hulk, Wonder Woman (my personal favorite) and Koda's favorite, Spiderman, as well as the ready-to-wear, performance sportswear and other garments inspired by them.


Costume Institute "Superheroes" preview (Robin Givhan)


All this information was fine and dandy and clear as can be, but I was left a bit confused by some of Armani's remarks. Now let me first say that he was being translated from Italian into English and so something might have been lost along the way. But in his remarks, Armani addressed a long-standing tension between Vogue and Armani in which the magazine is purported not to show the designer enough love and respect. I'm not going to get into the middle of that spat, which may or may not be real, but Armani went to great lengths to assure the audience that really, he LOVES Anna, even though they have aesthetic disagreements. Well, ok then. Thanks for clearing that up.

Armani's sponsorship of this exhibit might seem a bit odd. He's not known as a designer to be so literal in interpreting his inspiration and I can't say that I recall a collection that evoked Superman. But from a conceptual point of view, he is renowned for dressing professional women and highly regarded for creating clothes that empower and embolden women. I think that would be an interesting way of looking at his work in conjunction with superheroes.

And I might also add that while I occasionally have aesthetic disagreements with the designer, I have nothing but love and respect for him. In case anyone was wondering.

Super Heroes and Super Surprises

February 21st, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

I was struck dumb at the Prada show on Tuesday night when, lo and behold, who should come walking down the runway but the model Jourdan Dunn. Black girl walking! During all the brouhaha in New York over the lack of black models on the runway, much of the blame - fairly or unfairly - was laid at the feet of Miuccia Prada. She was among the first designers to prefer a homogenous runway, in which the clothes registered on the audience but not the people wearing them. We're keeping hope alive for the possible integration of the Jil Sander runway next season.

Wednesday morning I tried to jolt myself awake with a very large mug of espresso. The charming waiter tried to explain to me that the coffee that goes in the big cup is the watered down American version, but I was having none of that. I think I might have had a quadruple shot of espresso. All I can say is caffeine is not all that. I could have used a chaser of Red Bull and a big bowl of sugary cereal.


Costume Institute exhibition co-chairs Anna Wintour and Giorgio Armani (REUTERS/Stefano Rellandini )


The need to energize came about because I was headed to an 8:30 a.m. preview of the upcoming exhibtion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. The exhibition, "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy," opens in May and the accompanying swanky party will be co-chaired by Vogue's Anna Wintour. The honorary chair is Giorgio Armani, who is also the lead sponsor of the exhibit.

The Costume Institute's curator Harold Koda had flown in with some frocks from the exhibition and to talk a bit about what everyone could expect. He brought along a Batman costume from the upcoming film "The Dark Knight" as well as superhero-inspired garments from designer Bernhard Willhelm, John Galliano and Armani. The exhibition sounds particularly interesting because it will be both literal and conceptual. So it will look at the costumes of superheroes such as Batman, the Hulk, Wonder Woman (my personal favorite) and Koda's favorite, Spiderman, as well as the ready-to-wear, performance sportswear and other garments inspired by them.


Costume Institute "Superheroes" preview (Robin Givhan)


All this information was fine and dandy and clear as can be, but I was left a bit confused by some of Armani's remarks. Now let me first say that he was being translated from Italian into English and so something might have been lost along the way. But in his remarks, Armani addressed a long-standing tension between Vogue and Armani in which the magazine is purported not to show the designer enough love and respect. I'm not going to get into the middle of that spat, which may or may not be real, but Armani went to great lengths to assure the audience that really, he LOVES Anna, even though they have aesthetic disagreements. Well, ok then. Thanks for clearing that up.

Armani's sponsorship of this exhibit might seem a bit odd. He's not known as a designer to be so literal in interpreting his inspiration and I can't say that I recall a collection that evoked Superman. But from a conceptual point of view, he is renowned for dressing professional women and highly regarded for creating clothes that empower and embolden women. I think that would be an interesting way of looking at his work in conjunction with superheroes.

And I might also add that while I occasionally have aesthetic disagreements with the designer, I have nothing but love and respect for him. In case anyone was wondering.

Virtual Bags

February 18th, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

Today was one of those days clogged with fashion shows every hour on the hour. The fashion parade zipped all across town running from the Giorgio Armani show at 11 in the morning and finishing up with Jil Sander at 8 p.m. I will be in much better condition to write thoughtfully about the Jil Sander collection for Thursday's paper after a good night's sleep, but there were so many sagging eyelids in the audience at the show - which just happened to be in an overheated location - that I began to wonder whether an audience's like or dislike for a show is directly related to where it happens to fall on a busy day.

In between the Gianfranco Ferre show and the Burberry one, I stopped into a cocktail party celebrating the opening of the new Dolce & Gabbana accessory store on via della Spiga. Those Dolce boys seem to be a recurring theme on this trip. As is the custom, a store opening requires champagne and hors d'oeuvres. Thankfully, there were no images of either designer in his skivvies adorning the walls as had been the case the last time I attended one of their swank events.


Dolce & Gabbana bag


One of the best elements of their spring show had been a group of patchwork patent leather handbags. So I was curious to see how they looked up close and hanging from my shoulder. I was also interested in finding out how much they cost. Alas, the famed oversize patchwork bag had no price tag that I could find - and let's just say I dug my hand way down deep into the dark recesses of that purse. I called for assistance. The nice sales lady started going through the various pockets until she uncovered a little card that revealed the bag to be a runway sample. And it was not for sale. Does a bag that only exists on the runway - at least so far - actually exist?

Virtual Bags

February 18th, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

Today was one of those days clogged with fashion shows every hour on the hour. The fashion parade zipped all across town running from the Giorgio Armani show at 11 in the morning and finishing up with Jil Sander at 8 p.m. I will be in much better condition to write thoughtfully about the Jil Sander collection for Thursday's paper after a good night's sleep, but there were so many sagging eyelids in the audience at the show - which just happened to be in an overheated location - that I began to wonder whether an audience's like or dislike for a show is directly related to where it happens to fall on a busy day.

In between the Gianfranco Ferre show and the Burberry one, I stopped into a cocktail party celebrating the opening of the new Dolce & Gabbana accessory store on via della Spiga. Those Dolce boys seem to be a recurring theme on this trip. As is the custom, a store opening requires champagne and hors d'oeuvres. Thankfully, there were no images of either designer in his skivvies adorning the walls as had been the case the last time I attended one of their swank events.


Dolce & Gabbana bag


One of the best elements of their spring show had been a group of patchwork patent leather handbags. So I was curious to see how they looked up close and hanging from my shoulder. I was also interested in finding out how much they cost. Alas, the famed oversize patchwork bag had no price tag that I could find - and let's just say I dug my hand way down deep into the dark recesses of that purse. I called for assistance. The nice sales lady started going through the various pockets until she uncovered a little card that revealed the bag to be a runway sample. And it was not for sale. Does a bag that only exists on the runway - at least so far - actually exist?

Shopping Buzz-Kill

February 18th, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

I arrived in Milan on Saturday and immediately settled into my twice yearly ritual: Take a quick nap and check out the stores. I headed over to the Prada store where the place was filled with those diaphanous dresses and skirts from the runway. Miuccia Prada is a designer who actually stocks her store with much of what she shows on the runway. Pretty, pretty little summer dresses with fitted bodices and full skirts and the whopping price tag of 2,500 euros. Oh my.

The metallic sandals with wispy straps decorated with tiny leaves cut out of leather were stunning and they were priced at about 390 euros. That sounded a little bit better. Not exactly a bargain, but in the acceptable range of ridiculously overpriced shoes. Boy, oh boy, I hope my father didn't just read that sentence.

But then I got to thinking about my little encounter at the currency exchange booth at the airport. I know the airport isn't the best place to change money, but I needed cash for the cab and I was tired. Thomas Cook was calling my name. A wad of dollars got me next to nothing in euros. The exchange rate was 1.62 dollars to the euro. That's a seriously painful reality. It meant the shoes were practically $700. Talk about a buzz kill. And frankly, that's almost all anyone can talk about: the sinking dollar. Oh, and the American presidential election.

I thought things might look better - pricewise- over at the new Marni accessory store on via della Spiga. It was filled with shoes that looked - honestly - like they were made of plastic. I'm sure they were made of some super secret material that is both green and chic. But I didn't get it. The main store, just behind the accessory one, was stocked with the brand's signature sack dresses in multi-colored prints. The dresses looked gorgeous but all I kept thinking was how the last thing I needed in my life was another sack dress to go with the ga-zillion sack dresses already in my closet. Because yes, I drank the fashion Kool-Aid and decided that I should fill my wardrobe with dresses that look like they came from A Pea in a Pod. Now, I need a designer who believes in the hourglass figure. So off I went to Dolce & Gabbana.

I raved about the brand's spring collection, which was filled with breathtaking hand-painted dresses. I was hoping that the designers had taken that idea and transformed it into more accessible dresses with stunning floral prints. How brilliant would that be? Inside the store I found some of the hand-painted dresses. The label noted they were "limited edition" so I just backed away slowly without looking for the price tag. I might have fainted dead away.

But where oh where were the more accessible versions? Darn it, but those designers had decided to be purists. They did not water down the idea - except for a few painted splattered t-shirts. I admire the integrity and all that, but really, don't they know the exchange rate? Can't they show an American shopper a little love?


Green Absolute recipe

The shows began on Sunday and I've already got a couple under my belt. More about the shows in my story on Thursday. I arrived back at my hotel at about midnight to find that the staff had left a martini shaker, a bucket of ice, two glasses and a recipe for something called a Green Absolute. A special fashion week drink? The ingredients all appear to be in the mini bar. I was going to break into the vodka - for research purposes, of course - but held back. I need to pace myself. But for anyone interested, here's the recipe. Basically, throw it all into the shaker with ice. Serve in a tumbler garnished with lemon.

Shopping Buzz-Kill

February 18th, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

I arrived in Milan on Saturday and immediately settled into my twice yearly ritual: Take a quick nap and check out the stores. I headed over to the Prada store where the place was filled with those diaphanous dresses and skirts from the runway. Miuccia Prada is a designer who actually stocks her store with much of what she shows on the runway. Pretty, pretty little summer dresses with fitted bodices and full skirts and the whopping price tag of 2,500 euros. Oh my.

The metallic sandals with wispy straps decorated with tiny leaves cut out of leather were stunning and they were priced at about 390 euros. That sounded a little bit better. Not exactly a bargain, but in the acceptable range of ridiculously overpriced shoes. Boy, oh boy, I hope my father didn't just read that sentence.

But then I got to thinking about my little encounter at the currency exchange booth at the airport. I know the airport isn't the best place to change money, but I needed cash for the cab and I was tired. Thomas Cook was calling my name. A wad of dollars got me next to nothing in euros. The exchange rate was 1.62 dollars to the euro. That's a seriously painful reality. It meant the shoes were practically $700. Talk about a buzz kill. And frankly, that's almost all anyone can talk about: the sinking dollar. Oh, and the American presidential election.

I thought things might look better - pricewise- over at the new Marni accessory store on via della Spiga. It was filled with shoes that looked - honestly - like they were made of plastic. I'm sure they were made of some super secret material that is both green and chic. But I didn't get it. The main store, just behind the accessory one, was stocked with the brand's signature sack dresses in multi-colored prints. The dresses looked gorgeous but all I kept thinking was how the last thing I needed in my life was another sack dress to go with the ga-zillion sack dresses already in my closet. Because yes, I drank the fashion Kool-Aid and decided that I should fill my wardrobe with dresses that look like they came from A Pea in a Pod. Now, I need a designer who believes in the hourglass figure. So off I went to Dolce & Gabbana.

I raved about the brand's spring collection, which was filled with breathtaking hand-painted dresses. I was hoping that the designers had taken that idea and transformed it into more accessible dresses with stunning floral prints. How brilliant would that be? Inside the store I found some of the hand-painted dresses. The label noted they were "limited edition" so I just backed away slowly without looking for the price tag. I might have fainted dead away.

But where oh where were the more accessible versions? Darn it, but those designers had decided to be purists. They did not water down the idea - except for a few painted splattered t-shirts. I admire the integrity and all that, but really, don't they know the exchange rate? Can't they show an American shopper a little love?


Green Absolute recipe

The shows began on Sunday and I've already got a couple under my belt. More about the shows in my story on Thursday. I arrived back at my hotel at about midnight to find that the staff had left a martini shaker, a bucket of ice, two glasses and a recipe for something called a Green Absolute. A special fashion week drink? The ingredients all appear to be in the mini bar. I was going to break into the vodka - for research purposes, of course - but held back. I need to pace myself. But for anyone interested, here's the recipe. Basically, throw it all into the shaker with ice. Serve in a tumbler garnished with lemon.

One Small Step Toward Diversity

February 8th, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in New York

I have spent no small amount of time writing on this blog and in the newspaper about the lack of diversity on the runway. I've written about the efforts by industry veteran Bethann Hardison to impress upon the fashion industry the importance of thinking broadly when casting their runway shows. I've also mentioned that designer Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent letters to designers reminding them that they are part of a global industry. I'm happy to report there has been progress.

One of the design houses that was held up as a major offender - for having a homogenous crew of white models - was Calvin Klein. I don't know how many times photos of last season's finale have been reproduced as evidence of what's wrong with the industry when it comes to diversity.


Black model Liya Kebede on the Calvin Klein runway (Maria Valentino for The Washington Post)

But at the show Thursday evening, lo and behold, the black model Liya Kebede was on the runway. Good for you Liya and bravo to designer Francisco Costa. Sure, it would be nice to have a veritable United Nations on the runway. But this is fashion and it's all about personal vision, not we-shall-overcome. I'm happy to see that Costa's vision has gotten a little broader. Doesn't that just make you feel all warm and fuzzy?

Many other runways also had a black model or two. In fact, the black model Jourdan Dunn was practically one of the stars of the runway this time around. It didn't look like any designer had to compromise his or her creative vision to do the right thing, either. They were able to convey boho chic, rich socialite, and even creepy cypher without freezing out an entire group of women. Yes, indeed, we can all manage to get along.

By the way, the New York fashion shows end today. I'll be going to Sean John and then Marc "I don't have a clock that works" Jacobs. Marc's show is scheduled for 7 p.m. Here's hoping that it starts by 8. Cheers!

One Small Step Toward Diversity

February 8th, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in New York

I have spent no small amount of time writing on this blog and in the newspaper about the lack of diversity on the runway. I've written about the efforts by industry veteran Bethann Hardison to impress upon the fashion industry the importance of thinking broadly when casting their runway shows. I've also mentioned that designer Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent letters to designers reminding them that they are part of a global industry. I'm happy to report there has been progress.

One of the design houses that was held up as a major offender - for having a homogenous crew of white models - was Calvin Klein. I don't know how many times photos of last season's finale have been reproduced as evidence of what's wrong with the industry when it comes to diversity.


Black model Liya Kebede on the Calvin Klein runway (Maria Valentino for The Washington Post)

But at the show Thursday evening, lo and behold, the black model Liya Kebede was on the runway. Good for you Liya and bravo to designer Francisco Costa. Sure, it would be nice to have a veritable United Nations on the runway. But this is fashion and it's all about personal vision, not we-shall-overcome. I'm happy to see that Costa's vision has gotten a little broader. Doesn't that just make you feel all warm and fuzzy?

Many other runways also had a black model or two. In fact, the black model Jourdan Dunn was practically one of the stars of the runway this time around. It didn't look like any designer had to compromise his or her creative vision to do the right thing, either. They were able to convey boho chic, rich socialite, and even creepy cypher without freezing out an entire group of women. Yes, indeed, we can all manage to get along.

By the way, the New York fashion shows end today. I'll be going to Sean John and then Marc "I don't have a clock that works" Jacobs. Marc's show is scheduled for 7 p.m. Here's hoping that it starts by 8. Cheers!