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Head Precariously Over Heels at Prada

September 24th, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

There was not enough prosecco in all of Milan to save this day. it began bright and early with the Moschino show at 9 a.m. I will not bore those who have read this blog before with my ranting about how shows here begin inexplicably late. The Moschino show, the first of the day, began almost an hour late, thus causing a domino effect on a schedule that had shows planned every 45 minutes.

Sometime around 9:30, one of the folks who works at Moschino came along to say hello. I smiled as best as I could and immediately demanded, "What's the hold up?!" After she cursed me with her eyes, she mustered a polite: I'll go check. And then she didn't come back.

When the show finally started, it was an attack of the ruffles. One model wore a jacket, or perhaps it was a top, that swallowed her entire torso in one giant swirl of a ruffled rose.

There were a few charming dresses, including one in turquoise that had a wonderful vintage-shop feel thanks to its crushed rows of ruffles. But the models' hair - simultaneously ratted and curled - was a distraction and the cat-eye makeup didn't do them any favors.


Stumbling along during the Prada runway show in Milan. (Courtesy of Prada)

It was a race against the clock after the Moschino show. Folks were galloping across town and dashing into shows that were starting an hour late or worse. It was impossible to know how late was going to be too late to arrive at a show and how early was going to mean two hours perched on an uncomfortable bleacher.

I ended up missing the Bottega Veneta show because all the time I'd set aside in the afternoon to write disappeared thanks to a schedule turned topsy-turvy. The designer, Tomas Maier, said in his collection notes that he was experimenting with volume and architecture and it was one of the most complex collections he has ever created. I'll have to wait until it arrives in stores.

As we were zipping through town we passed the facade of the new Giorgio Armani hotel on via Manzoni. Actually, it was more like a banner announcing the planned hotel. I have visions of beige rooms, with beige sheets and beige carpeting and a concierge staff in beige uniforms wearing odd hats and looking like something out of "Zoolander." But I'm sure it will be much, much more chic than that because Mr. Armani is worth a zillion dollars. And I am not.

I will have much more to say later about the Prada show. But I must note here that one of the mysteries of the fashion industry is why female designers put models in shoes with heels so high that they are an abomination. The shoes at the Prada show - sky-high heels on a straw platform and worn with little Peds-like socks - were impossible to maneuver in. Models were tumbling over and those who managed to remain upright were so tense that their fearful posture was a distraction from the clothes.

I desperately wanted Mrs. Prada to come out for her bows wearing those crazy shoes. Call me vindictive, but it only seemed fair.

Deal of the Day-Built by Wendy

September 23rd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in

With all of the great pencil skirts, blazers and jackets, a gal needs some fun blouses. And this Dotted Ruffle Top from Built by Wendy fits the bill.

Pair it with anything and everything in your wardrobe regardless of how casual or dressy. It’s $73 down from $145.


Deal of the Day-Built by Wendy

September 23rd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in
With all of the great pencil skirts, blazers and jackets, a gal needs some fun blouses. And this Dotted Ruffle Top from Built by Wendy fits the bill. Pair it with anything and everything in your wardrobe regardless of...

Pringle, Alberta Ferretti’s Pantyhose and Zaha Hadid

September 23rd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in Milan

This was one of those busy fashion days during which I am sure I wore my heels down by a millimeter or two. It began with a trot on the treadmill at 8:30 a.m. and ended with a dinner with the Pringle people and this blog item.


Neil Barrett runway show in Milan. (Courtesy of Neil Barrett)

In the afternoon, I stopped by the Neil Barrett showroom. His great success has been as a menswear designer, but he produces a terrific womenswear line that is distinctive for its somewhat androgynous sensibility. His spring collection was called "Sartorial Gymnastics" and let's just say that all those Olympic gymnasts would have been a whole lot more chic had Barrett been in charge of their wardrobe.

The most enticing thing about the collection is his use of jersey to create tailored blazers and peacoats. The result, he said, are garments that move with the body but retain their sharp lines and don't wrinkle. I didn't try on any of the samples, since I do like my chocolate and pasta upon occasion, so I'll have to take his word for it.

He also is opening a series of stores (none in the D.C. area, though) designed by architect Zaha Hadid. Even though I know little about architecture, I know Zaha Hadid and I know that having her design your store is pretty impressive. Barrett noted that he lucked out because her partner Patrik Schumacher is a fan of vintage Prada menswear - where Barrett used to work - and of Barrett's own menswear line. And since Hadid likes the way Schumacher looks, well, that helped to grease the wheels a bit.

All this means that Barrett's business is moving along at a nice clip. He does big business in the U.S. at Bergdorf Goodman, as well as in Asia, and, increasingly, in Russia. Contrary to the stereotype of Russian shoppers prefering more ornate garments, Barrett says they are now gravitating to more minimalist designers like Martin Margiela and, of course, him.

The most curious thing I've seen on the runway thus far has been the stockings at Alberta Ferretti. They're like stockings from the pre-Spandex days when they were made solely out of nylon. The sheer stockings in shades of orange and sky blue were droopy and twisted around the models' legs. On purpose. The models looked like they'd been dressed by lady hobos.

Finally, my day ended with my second meal at Da Giacomo in as many days. Oh how I suffer so for my job! This one was with the folks who represent Pringle, a British company known for its knitwear that has been around since the early 1800s. Needless to say, it is being re-energized. Its designer, Clare Waight Keller, was inspired by the swimming pool paintings of David Hockney and so the collection was filled with dresses splashed with lapis blue. The signature knits were as super-fine as ever and some were woven in elegant patterns or had rows of ruffles.

My complaint? Well, other than that the prices are off-the-charts expensive, I wish the designer made a stronger statement with her work. Keller isn't one to shout, I'm told. But in this business I'm not sure those who whisper manage to be heard.

Scene-NYC streets

September 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in

sandra_gil.jpg

Sandra Gil, a fashion publicist for Factory PR, wears a vintage dress with Free People floral-print tights, Fornarina shoes, Marc Jacobs sunglasses and a vintage bag. "I'm either black and classic, for work, or I'm the extreme of that, and I'm all colors," says Sandra.

Scene-NYC streets

September 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in
Sandra Gil, a fashion publicist for Factory PR, wears a vintage dress with Free People floral-print tights, Fornarina shoes, Marc Jacobs sunglasses and a vintage bag. "I'm either black and classic, for work, or I'm the extreme of that,...

Pulse Sales-09/22

September 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in

HERMES
125 W. 18th St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues; 212-463-0071
Sale: Sept. 24-28. Wed., 10 a.m.-6 p.m./Thurs., 10 a.m.-8 p.m./Fri.-Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m./Sun., 1 p.m.-6 p.m.
Find the famed bags and scarves at discounted prices.

WHITE + WARREN
80 W. 40th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues; 212-398-3295
Sale: Sept. 26. Fri., 8 a.m.-5 p.m.
Snag a cashmere sweater coat for $150.

V IS FOR VINTAGE
129 Prince St., between Wooster and West Broadway; 212-594-5380
Sale: Sept. 26-28. Fri.-Sun., 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Shop vintage YSL, Chanel, Lanvin and more.

HONEY IN THE ROUGH/NARNIA VINTAGE
157 Rivington St., between Suffolk and Clinton streets; 212-228-6415
Sale: Sept. 26-27. Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Hit both stores for discounts on Alice McCall, 1940s vintage dresses, and more.

Pulse Sales-09/22

September 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in
HERMES 125 W. 18th St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues; 212-463-0071 Sale: Sept. 24-28. Wed., 10 a.m.-6 p.m./Thurs., 10 a.m.-8 p.m./Fri.-Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m./Sun., 1 p.m.-6 p.m. Find the famed bags and scarves at discounted prices. WHITE + WARREN 80...

Deal of the Day-Loeffler Randall

September 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in

This Drop Waist Dress by Loeffler Randall is a great LBD to have for the season.

Layer it under a cardigan for the office and a slouchy blazer and studded strappy shoes for all of those upcoming cocktail parties.

But be mindful of the cut. It will look best on girls with smaller hips. It’s been marked down from $295 to $143 at activeendeavors.com

Deal of the Day-Loeffler Randall

September 22nd, 2008 | Comments Off | Posted in
This Drop Waist Dress by Loeffler Randall is a great LBD to have for the season. Layer it under a cardigan for the office and a slouchy blazer and studded strappy shoes for all of those upcoming cocktail parties....