No Versace Ticket, No Dolce & Gabbana Beefcake

It wouldn't be fashion season in Europe if I didn't spend at least one afternoon in a mental muddle. Today, the last day of the Milan shows, was that day. I threw my Versace invitation in the trash. This was not a commentary on the show. It happened during a frenzy of handbag organization when I began tossing out pretty much everything in sight except my wallet and my umbrella.

Bagonghi in Velvet Petit Rouge by Roberta di Camerino

I discovered my lack of an invitation as I was walking up to the entrance of the show. Luckily, the nice PR person from the New York office smiled in empathy, cleared a path and pointed me towards the bar. Yes, virtually every show in Milan offers some sort of libation or nibble. New York likes to leave goodie bags on the seats at shows. They're typically filled with giveaways from whatever company is sponsoring the show. If I took home every goodie-filled sack, I'd have a year's supply of Redken shampoo in my closet. In Paris, where I'll arrive on Saturday, few shows offer anything additional other than attitude.

One of the tragedies of the jam-packed Milan schedule is that I have so little time to visit showrooms and small presentations where designers present their work on mannequins or in other intersting displays. I did manage to get to the Roberta di Camerino presentation of handbags. The company was founded some 50 years ago and has been relaunched under new ownership. Founder Giuliana Coen was on hand and talked about how she created her first bags, which introduced such ideas as trompe l'oeil.

The frame bags are made from fabrics such as velvet, but also exotic skins like crocodile. The velvet ones are particularly lightweight. One of the bags, called the Bagonghi, was carried by Grace Kelly. Next to Audrey Hepburn, I'd say that is the ultimate celebrity fashion endorsement.

The bags are pricey, 'natch. They run in the $1,000 vicinity and higher.

While we were there, we chatted with the fashion director of Bloomingdale's who was REALLY excited about the bags and pretty much told Giuliana: We want to buy these! I was thinking the same thing.

This afternoon, I went to the Dolce & Gabbana show where I was treated to an unobstructed view of celebrity row. Among the famous: Jennifer Lopez, Marc Anthony, Matthew McConaughey, Dita Von Teese and a very tall brunette who was wearing the sparkly high-heeled brogues from the fall collection, which I happen to know cost more than 2,100 euro. That's like $3,000, people. For a pair of shoes!

The ladies all posed on the runway for the photographers. The men went directly to their seats. Frankly, I'd rather have gotten a good full length view of McConaughey rather than J-Lo, but the photographers are mostly men. So there you go. Robbed of the beefcake.

Head Precariously Over Heels at Prada

There was not enough prosecco in all of Milan to save this day. it began bright and early with the Moschino show at 9 a.m. I will not bore those who have read this blog before with my ranting about how shows here begin inexplicably late. The Moschino show, the first of the day, began almost an hour late, thus causing a domino effect on a schedule that had shows planned every 45 minutes.

Sometime around 9:30, one of the folks who works at Moschino came along to say hello. I smiled as best as I could and immediately demanded, "What's the hold up?!" After she cursed me with her eyes, she mustered a polite: I'll go check. And then she didn't come back.

When the show finally started, it was an attack of the ruffles. One model wore a jacket, or perhaps it was a top, that swallowed her entire torso in one giant swirl of a ruffled rose.

There were a few charming dresses, including one in turquoise that had a wonderful vintage-shop feel thanks to its crushed rows of ruffles. But the models' hair - simultaneously ratted and curled - was a distraction and the cat-eye makeup didn't do them any favors.

Stumbling along during the Prada runway show in Milan. (Courtesy of Prada)

It was a race against the clock after the Moschino show. Folks were galloping across town and dashing into shows that were starting an hour late or worse. It was impossible to know how late was going to be too late to arrive at a show and how early was going to mean two hours perched on an uncomfortable bleacher.

I ended up missing the Bottega Veneta show because all the time I'd set aside in the afternoon to write disappeared thanks to a schedule turned topsy-turvy. The designer, Tomas Maier, said in his collection notes that he was experimenting with volume and architecture and it was one of the most complex collections he has ever created. I'll have to wait until it arrives in stores.

As we were zipping through town we passed the facade of the new Giorgio Armani hotel on via Manzoni. Actually, it was more like a banner announcing the planned hotel. I have visions of beige rooms, with beige sheets and beige carpeting and a concierge staff in beige uniforms wearing odd hats and looking like something out of "Zoolander." But I'm sure it will be much, much more chic than that because Mr. Armani is worth a zillion dollars. And I am not.

I will have much more to say later about the Prada show. But I must note here that one of the mysteries of the fashion industry is why female designers put models in shoes with heels so high that they are an abomination. The shoes at the Prada show - sky-high heels on a straw platform and worn with little Peds-like socks - were impossible to maneuver in. Models were tumbling over and those who managed to remain upright were so tense that their fearful posture was a distraction from the clothes.

I desperately wanted Mrs. Prada to come out for her bows wearing those crazy shoes. Call me vindictive, but it only seemed fair.

Pringle, Alberta Ferretti’s Pantyhose and Zaha Hadid

This was one of those busy fashion days during which I am sure I wore my heels down by a millimeter or two. It began with a trot on the treadmill at 8:30 a.m. and ended with a dinner with the Pringle people and this blog item.

Neil Barrett runway show in Milan. (Courtesy of Neil Barrett)

In the afternoon, I stopped by the Neil Barrett showroom. His great success has been as a menswear designer, but he produces a terrific womenswear line that is distinctive for its somewhat androgynous sensibility. His spring collection was called "Sartorial Gymnastics" and let's just say that all those Olympic gymnasts would have been a whole lot more chic had Barrett been in charge of their wardrobe.

The most enticing thing about the collection is his use of jersey to create tailored blazers and peacoats. The result, he said, are garments that move with the body but retain their sharp lines and don't wrinkle. I didn't try on any of the samples, since I do like my chocolate and pasta upon occasion, so I'll have to take his word for it.

He also is opening a series of stores (none in the D.C. area, though) designed by architect Zaha Hadid. Even though I know little about architecture, I know Zaha Hadid and I know that having her design your store is pretty impressive. Barrett noted that he lucked out because her partner Patrik Schumacher is a fan of vintage Prada menswear - where Barrett used to work - and of Barrett's own menswear line. And since Hadid likes the way Schumacher looks, well, that helped to grease the wheels a bit.

All this means that Barrett's business is moving along at a nice clip. He does big business in the U.S. at Bergdorf Goodman, as well as in Asia, and, increasingly, in Russia. Contrary to the stereotype of Russian shoppers prefering more ornate garments, Barrett says they are now gravitating to more minimalist designers like Martin Margiela and, of course, him.

The most curious thing I've seen on the runway thus far has been the stockings at Alberta Ferretti. They're like stockings from the pre-Spandex days when they were made solely out of nylon. The sheer stockings in shades of orange and sky blue were droopy and twisted around the models' legs. On purpose. The models looked like they'd been dressed by lady hobos.

Finally, my day ended with my second meal at Da Giacomo in as many days. Oh how I suffer so for my job! This one was with the folks who represent Pringle, a British company known for its knitwear that has been around since the early 1800s. Needless to say, it is being re-energized. Its designer, Clare Waight Keller, was inspired by the swimming pool paintings of David Hockney and so the collection was filled with dresses splashed with lapis blue. The signature knits were as super-fine as ever and some were woven in elegant patterns or had rows of ruffles.

My complaint? Well, other than that the prices are off-the-charts expensive, I wish the designer made a stronger statement with her work. Keller isn't one to shout, I'm told. But in this business I'm not sure those who whisper manage to be heard.

Milan and a New Day at Ferre

The Milan spring 2009 fashion shows began over the weekend, with the first of the major design houses unveiling their collections Sunday. I actually arrived in Milan on Thursday. But I left immediately for a few days of Zen time in Capri because I'm never one to turn down an opportunity for self-pampering.

Things would have been more relaxing if I had been up to date on the drama unfolding in Italy over Alitalia. For Americans who fret about the situation with airlines in the United States, things couldn't be worse for those who fly Alitalia. It could pretty much vanish in the coming days because of its poor financial condition, protesting unions and a variety of European Union rules that prevent various obvious options for saving it. Last I checked, Alitalia is only flying until the airline runs out of fuel it has on hand.

When I checked in at the Naples airport, which is the closest to Capri, the agent behind the desk could not have been less interested. I honestly think I could have checked a moose with my luggage and she would not have blinked.

Capri is ridiculously stunning and has more designer shops jammed into a tiny amount of square footage that I've ever seen. I spent the greater part of three days debating which of several Prada wallets I should buy as my own wallet was literally falling apart in my hands. Never mind that said wallet is practically empty because the economy sucks, the euro remains mighty and I am not independently wealthy.

My first show in Milan was Emporio Armani, which was followed by the Gianfranco Ferre show. The Ferre show was a big deal because it was the first collection by the house's new designers, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, who rose to fame with the 6267 line.

To celebrate the house's new beginning, there was a dinner at Da Giacomo, a tasty little restaurant at #6 via Pasquale Sottocorno. The food was divine and the guests were a mix of editors and retailers from all over the world. One of the people at my table was a fellow named Stefano. I didn't catch his last name because he was on the other side of the table and there was quite a din in the room. I could have double-checked before I left, but sorry, I was practically ready to tip over from the constant stream of wine that kept flowing into my glass.

Stefano is in charge of creating a commercial network in which to sell the clothes. He's the guy with the hardest job: He's got to move the merch. He's only been at Ferre for about a year. Before that he was at Just Cavalli. So for a while he was selling sex; now he has to sell glamour.

If you're wondering why you haven't seen a Ferre frock very often in the U.S., it's because the distribution there has basically been non-existent. The store that was in D.C. closed some time ago. The LA store needs a renovation. And so on.

So once again a fashion line is trying to rebuild itself after its founder has passed away. Ferre has found a couple of talented designers. Now let's see if Stefano and the rest of the executive team can help them make magic.

Marni and McDreamy

Thursday was a good day because the sun was shining, I bought a Marni blouse at discount and the actor Patrick Dempsey was in my future.

I managed to scare up a little time to visit the Marni outlet at #1 via Tajani. Apparently, pretty much every other editor designated the same window of opportunity as Marni time. The place was lively and it was stuffed to the gills with merchandise from the last several seasons. While most of the merchandise - from clothes to sunglasses - is from the women's collection, there is a small selection of Marni menswear as well.

Patrick Dempsey at Versace dinner (Reuters/Allesandro Garafalo)

The "Grey's Anatomy" star was the guest of honor at a Versace dinner following the presentation of the fall '08 collection. Dempsey is the "face" of their new advertising campaign. I had a few moments with Dempsey during the cocktail hour and he remarked on how impressed he was to learn that the Versace family has dressmaking and tailoring deep in its family tree. Mama Versace was, I believe, a dressmaker with her own shop.

Dempsey was quite the charmer and his wife was equally as lovely. I did not, however, feel that his wife and I'd established enough of a bond during our five minute conversation to exclaim: You just had twins! How the heck do you look so svelte?!

Dempsey said he'd been a fan of Versace menswear even before he'd signed on to represent the brand. Of course, I was highly skeptical. But his manager, who was one of the guests at my table during dinner, assured me that really, Dempsey had worn Versace to various award shows, events, etc. So ok, we'll take them both at their word.

I only wish that everyone could have a chance to dine chez Versace. First of all, the food was spectacular. I wish I could tell you what it was other than saying it was pasta and fish, followed by a chocolate/hazelnut dessert and washed down with good wine and champagne. And more champagne. The place wasn't loaded with gold leaf and Medusa heads. It is quite understated but very grand. The room was filled with candlelit tables and low arrangements of pale pink and white roses. Gorgeous.

Donatella is looking so svelte these days I honestly wondered if she'd had a rib removed to get such an hourglass shape. Perhaps it's the magic of a Versace frock? If that's the case, the Versace boutique will be my next pitstop.

Marni and McDreamy

Thursday was a good day because the sun was shining, I bought a Marni blouse at discount and the actor Patrick Dempsey was in my future.

I managed to scare up a little time to visit the Marni outlet at #1 via Tajani. Apparently, pretty much every other editor designated the same window of opportunity as Marni time. The place was lively and it was stuffed to the gills with merchandise from the last several seasons. While most of the merchandise - from clothes to sunglasses - is from the women's collection, there is a small selection of Marni menswear as well.

Patrick Dempsey at Versace dinner (Reuters/Allesandro Garafalo)

The "Grey's Anatomy" star was the guest of honor at a Versace dinner following the presentation of the fall '08 collection. Dempsey is the "face" of their new advertising campaign. I had a few moments with Dempsey during the cocktail hour and he remarked on how impressed he was to learn that the Versace family has dressmaking and tailoring deep in its family tree. Mama Versace was, I believe, a dressmaker with her own shop.

Dempsey was quite the charmer and his wife was equally as lovely. I did not, however, feel that his wife and I'd established enough of a bond during our five minute conversation to exclaim: You just had twins! How the heck do you look so svelte?!

Dempsey said he'd been a fan of Versace menswear even before he'd signed on to represent the brand. Of course, I was highly skeptical. But his manager, who was one of the guests at my table during dinner, assured me that really, Dempsey had worn Versace to various award shows, events, etc. So ok, we'll take them both at their word.

I only wish that everyone could have a chance to dine chez Versace. First of all, the food was spectacular. I wish I could tell you what it was other than saying it was pasta and fish, followed by a chocolate/hazelnut dessert and washed down with good wine and champagne. And more champagne. The place wasn't loaded with gold leaf and Medusa heads. It is quite understated but very grand. The room was filled with candlelit tables and low arrangements of pale pink and white roses. Gorgeous.

Donatella is looking so svelte these days I honestly wondered if she'd had a rib removed to get such an hourglass shape. Perhaps it's the magic of a Versace frock? If that's the case, the Versace boutique will be my next pitstop.

Super Heroes and Super Surprises

I was struck dumb at the Prada show on Tuesday night when, lo and behold, who should come walking down the runway but the model Jourdan Dunn. Black girl walking! During all the brouhaha in New York over the lack of black models on the runway, much of the blame - fairly or unfairly - was laid at the feet of Miuccia Prada. She was among the first designers to prefer a homogenous runway, in which the clothes registered on the audience but not the people wearing them. We're keeping hope alive for the possible integration of the Jil Sander runway next season.

Wednesday morning I tried to jolt myself awake with a very large mug of espresso. The charming waiter tried to explain to me that the coffee that goes in the big cup is the watered down American version, but I was having none of that. I think I might have had a quadruple shot of espresso. All I can say is caffeine is not all that. I could have used a chaser of Red Bull and a big bowl of sugary cereal.

Costume Institute exhibition co-chairs Anna Wintour and Giorgio Armani (REUTERS/Stefano Rellandini )

The need to energize came about because I was headed to an 8:30 a.m. preview of the upcoming exhibtion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. The exhibition, "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy," opens in May and the accompanying swanky party will be co-chaired by Vogue's Anna Wintour. The honorary chair is Giorgio Armani, who is also the lead sponsor of the exhibit.

The Costume Institute's curator Harold Koda had flown in with some frocks from the exhibition and to talk a bit about what everyone could expect. He brought along a Batman costume from the upcoming film "The Dark Knight" as well as superhero-inspired garments from designer Bernhard Willhelm, John Galliano and Armani. The exhibition sounds particularly interesting because it will be both literal and conceptual. So it will look at the costumes of superheroes such as Batman, the Hulk, Wonder Woman (my personal favorite) and Koda's favorite, Spiderman, as well as the ready-to-wear, performance sportswear and other garments inspired by them.

Costume Institute "Superheroes" preview (Robin Givhan)

All this information was fine and dandy and clear as can be, but I was left a bit confused by some of Armani's remarks. Now let me first say that he was being translated from Italian into English and so something might have been lost along the way. But in his remarks, Armani addressed a long-standing tension between Vogue and Armani in which the magazine is purported not to show the designer enough love and respect. I'm not going to get into the middle of that spat, which may or may not be real, but Armani went to great lengths to assure the audience that really, he LOVES Anna, even though they have aesthetic disagreements. Well, ok then. Thanks for clearing that up.

Armani's sponsorship of this exhibit might seem a bit odd. He's not known as a designer to be so literal in interpreting his inspiration and I can't say that I recall a collection that evoked Superman. But from a conceptual point of view, he is renowned for dressing professional women and highly regarded for creating clothes that empower and embolden women. I think that would be an interesting way of looking at his work in conjunction with superheroes.

And I might also add that while I occasionally have aesthetic disagreements with the designer, I have nothing but love and respect for him. In case anyone was wondering.

Super Heroes and Super Surprises

I was struck dumb at the Prada show on Tuesday night when, lo and behold, who should come walking down the runway but the model Jourdan Dunn. Black girl walking! During all the brouhaha in New York over the lack of black models on the runway, much of the blame - fairly or unfairly - was laid at the feet of Miuccia Prada. She was among the first designers to prefer a homogenous runway, in which the clothes registered on the audience but not the people wearing them. We're keeping hope alive for the possible integration of the Jil Sander runway next season.

Wednesday morning I tried to jolt myself awake with a very large mug of espresso. The charming waiter tried to explain to me that the coffee that goes in the big cup is the watered down American version, but I was having none of that. I think I might have had a quadruple shot of espresso. All I can say is caffeine is not all that. I could have used a chaser of Red Bull and a big bowl of sugary cereal.

Costume Institute exhibition co-chairs Anna Wintour and Giorgio Armani (REUTERS/Stefano Rellandini )

The need to energize came about because I was headed to an 8:30 a.m. preview of the upcoming exhibtion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. The exhibition, "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy," opens in May and the accompanying swanky party will be co-chaired by Vogue's Anna Wintour. The honorary chair is Giorgio Armani, who is also the lead sponsor of the exhibit.

The Costume Institute's curator Harold Koda had flown in with some frocks from the exhibition and to talk a bit about what everyone could expect. He brought along a Batman costume from the upcoming film "The Dark Knight" as well as superhero-inspired garments from designer Bernhard Willhelm, John Galliano and Armani. The exhibition sounds particularly interesting because it will be both literal and conceptual. So it will look at the costumes of superheroes such as Batman, the Hulk, Wonder Woman (my personal favorite) and Koda's favorite, Spiderman, as well as the ready-to-wear, performance sportswear and other garments inspired by them.

Costume Institute "Superheroes" preview (Robin Givhan)

All this information was fine and dandy and clear as can be, but I was left a bit confused by some of Armani's remarks. Now let me first say that he was being translated from Italian into English and so something might have been lost along the way. But in his remarks, Armani addressed a long-standing tension between Vogue and Armani in which the magazine is purported not to show the designer enough love and respect. I'm not going to get into the middle of that spat, which may or may not be real, but Armani went to great lengths to assure the audience that really, he LOVES Anna, even though they have aesthetic disagreements. Well, ok then. Thanks for clearing that up.

Armani's sponsorship of this exhibit might seem a bit odd. He's not known as a designer to be so literal in interpreting his inspiration and I can't say that I recall a collection that evoked Superman. But from a conceptual point of view, he is renowned for dressing professional women and highly regarded for creating clothes that empower and embolden women. I think that would be an interesting way of looking at his work in conjunction with superheroes.

And I might also add that while I occasionally have aesthetic disagreements with the designer, I have nothing but love and respect for him. In case anyone was wondering.

Virtual Bags

Today was one of those days clogged with fashion shows every hour on the hour. The fashion parade zipped all across town running from the Giorgio Armani show at 11 in the morning and finishing up with Jil Sander at 8 p.m. I will be in much better condition to write thoughtfully about the Jil Sander collection for Thursday's paper after a good night's sleep, but there were so many sagging eyelids in the audience at the show - which just happened to be in an overheated location - that I began to wonder whether an audience's like or dislike for a show is directly related to where it happens to fall on a busy day.

In between the Gianfranco Ferre show and the Burberry one, I stopped into a cocktail party celebrating the opening of the new Dolce & Gabbana accessory store on via della Spiga. Those Dolce boys seem to be a recurring theme on this trip. As is the custom, a store opening requires champagne and hors d'oeuvres. Thankfully, there were no images of either designer in his skivvies adorning the walls as had been the case the last time I attended one of their swank events.

Dolce & Gabbana bag

One of the best elements of their spring show had been a group of patchwork patent leather handbags. So I was curious to see how they looked up close and hanging from my shoulder. I was also interested in finding out how much they cost. Alas, the famed oversize patchwork bag had no price tag that I could find - and let's just say I dug my hand way down deep into the dark recesses of that purse. I called for assistance. The nice sales lady started going through the various pockets until she uncovered a little card that revealed the bag to be a runway sample. And it was not for sale. Does a bag that only exists on the runway - at least so far - actually exist?

Virtual Bags

Today was one of those days clogged with fashion shows every hour on the hour. The fashion parade zipped all across town running from the Giorgio Armani show at 11 in the morning and finishing up with Jil Sander at 8 p.m. I will be in much better condition to write thoughtfully about the Jil Sander collection for Thursday's paper after a good night's sleep, but there were so many sagging eyelids in the audience at the show - which just happened to be in an overheated location - that I began to wonder whether an audience's like or dislike for a show is directly related to where it happens to fall on a busy day.

In between the Gianfranco Ferre show and the Burberry one, I stopped into a cocktail party celebrating the opening of the new Dolce & Gabbana accessory store on via della Spiga. Those Dolce boys seem to be a recurring theme on this trip. As is the custom, a store opening requires champagne and hors d'oeuvres. Thankfully, there were no images of either designer in his skivvies adorning the walls as had been the case the last time I attended one of their swank events.

Dolce & Gabbana bag

One of the best elements of their spring show had been a group of patchwork patent leather handbags. So I was curious to see how they looked up close and hanging from my shoulder. I was also interested in finding out how much they cost. Alas, the famed oversize patchwork bag had no price tag that I could find - and let's just say I dug my hand way down deep into the dark recesses of that purse. I called for assistance. The nice sales lady started going through the various pockets until she uncovered a little card that revealed the bag to be a runway sample. And it was not for sale. Does a bag that only exists on the runway - at least so far - actually exist?