‘Project Runway’s’ Christian Siriano Puts on a Show

Hilfiger Spring '09

I mentioned earlier that I'd gone to a preview of the Tommy Hilfiger collection and that the designer had been inspired by the idea of relaxed glamour. Well, he put his collection on the runway last evening at Lincoln Center. In order to improve his business, he has adopted the European model for the American market. That means that he's shifted his sensibility and his prices upwards. Except for the line he now sells exclusively through Macy's, the collection now boasts evening gowns in the $1,000 range. The result of the shift and the Macy's partnership is a 60 percent increase in his women's business. So says Hilfiger himself.

Because I am a fan of "Project Runway" -- for professional reason only, honest! -- I couldn't resist going to the Christian V. Siriano show. Yes, he includes the middle initial on his label. He was last season's winner who couldn't get enough of the word "fierce" and has become Victoria Beckham's BFF. Well, sort of. Anyway, he showed his spring 2009 collection just before the Zac Posen fashion circus. All manner of "Project Runway" cast-offs were in the house, including Malan Breton, who I swear looked like he was wearing eyeliner, and Sweet Pea, whose tattoos are much more subtle in person than on TV and seemed to be giving a running commentary about the show to some guy from MTV.

It must be hard for these designers to move on after "PR" and be thought of as real designers and not just reality show knuckleheads. TV can do a lot for name recognition, but it's hard to shake off the stench of cheesiness.

His Fierceness put on a show that was focused, focused, focused on gray organza that was pleated, tucked and gathered into skinny pants, short skirts, tank tops, dresses and pretty much anything else you could think of. The show wasn't bad. In fact, it laid to rest any skepticism about whether he deserved to win. Siriano is very talented.

But it also was a reminder of just how hard it is to come up with truly unique ideas in the fashion industry and to execute them skillfully. An awful lot of the collection was reminiscent of work from houses such as Nina Ricci, Rodarte and Marchesa. But hats off to Siriano for being able to pull off a show that was professional and that had a point of view.

"PR" needs for one of its designers to do well in the industry. It looks like Siriano has the best chance. But who knows. My fingers are crossed.

I (heart) L.L.

There is a reason - other than the fact that he is built like an oak tree - why the ladies love L.L. Cool J. He is charm-tastic. I went to the party at the Bryant Park Grill celebrating the line that he has created for Sears. The line is for children, teenagers and men (not for women) and debuted Sept. 7.

L.L. Cool J

He told me that he spent the last five years conceiving and working on the line, which he said is meant to be "trendy and affordable." The prices range from $39.99 to $69.99 and it was cute enough. I can't vouch for the quality, but one thing he said that I thought was pretty smart was that the pricing was "not about how much you have but how much you're willing to spend." In other words, even if you can afford to spend $600 for a pair of pants, sometimes you just don't want to.

For some reason, it seemed that everyone who planned a party during Fashion Week chose Wednesday night. There's only so much champagne a girl can drink, for pete's sake.

I stopped into the Bullseye Bodega, the Target pop-up store on 57th Street and Sixth Avenue. Pop-up stores are all the rage in fashion, I guess because it is easier to commit to a space for a couple of days than to take a lease for five years. Anyway, the Target store was INSANE. The line to get in stretched for almost a block and I had to play the press card. I had places to go, notes to take, a blog to write, I said. I have no time to stand in line! The velvet rope parted. Once inside, I witnessed folks grabbing $34.99 Sigerson Morrison shoes off the shelf, $44.99 Anya Hindmarch bags, $19.99 garden gnomes - LOVE! - and $14.99 lampshades. The latest Go International designer is Jonathan Saunders, whose work was okay but frankly didn't have anything close to the pizzazz that Proenza Schouler and Patrick Robinson brought to Target.

Then I scooted over to Bergdorf Goodman, which was hosting a party for Bill Cunningham, the veteran photographer who shoots street fashion for the New York Times. Everyone loves Bill, who rides his bike around the city, always has his camera and calls everyone "Child." The store dedicated its windows to him and they are filled with his photographs and quotes from people he has shot.

He often hovers on the Bergdorf corner - 57th and Fifth Avenue - to capture the snazzy shoppers and passersby for his regular column. So if you're walking by, try your best to look cute.

A lot of folks at his party seemed to have primped a little bit more in hopes that their colorful plumage might catch his attention. Ever the photographer, Bill was greeting guests with one hand while he clutched his camera in the other. Who can resist a photographer so dedicated to his craft that he's shooting his own party pictures?

Political Mania and Famous Faces

I was at the Narciso Rodriguez show this evening where I met Diane English, the director of the upcoming film "The Women." She's best known for her long-running television show "Murphy Brown." Everyone has been talking politics between shows and this being an industry filled with East Coast types no one would be surprised to discover that most of the conversation has been about Barack Obama. And despite a story on "Good Morning America" that described Sarah Palin as a "fashion icon" because of her floppy up-do and her glasses, I can pretty much guarantee you that few people in this crowd are finding inspiration in her style.

I bring all this up because English was chatting with other famous folks as we waited for the show and noted that if only she still had her show... she could have such fun with this political season. I can only imagine what Murphy Brown would have to say about all of this.

Claire Danes and Julianna Margulies at the Narciso Rodriguez show

Other famous faces at the Narciso show included Julianna Margulies, who is quite simply stunning in person, and Claire Danes, who never fails to look annoyed and aggravated whenever she turns up at a fashion show. Her irritation seems to be that photographers want to take her picture, which would seem to be the point of an actress walking into a room filled with media.

The highlight of the evening was dinner at Del Posto, the Joe and Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali Italian restaurant on 10th Avenue. It was completely unrelated to the fashion shows, but I mention it because the food was quite tasty and perhaps this means I will be able to call the $28 chocolate tasting a business expense. Or not.

Read Robin Givhan's latest story from New York Fashion Week.

High Line, Hilfiger and Holy Cow, He’s on Time!

Everything about fashion week sounds glamorous in theory. But before you know it, you're running after cabs with the hem falling out of your Marni dress and the glint of a safety pin clearly visible despite your best attempts to hide it. Monday. Blecch! I've had better days.

I begin this posting with a report from a champagne and caviar event to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Calvin Klein company. I wish I could tell you that I had a tete-a-tete with the current designer, Francisco Costa, but I could not locate him in the crowd of five zillion. The party took place on the yet to be completed High Line, which is an urban part atop an old rail line. The views from this highrise park are gorgeous -- if you overlook the Mobil gas station -- and you feel like you're in a little oasis in the middle of the city. The pathway through the wild flowers -- and the roses trucked in for the evening -- was lit by lanterns and waiters passed champagne and hors d'oeuvres. Apparently this wasn't enough to keep the jaded fashion folk entertained as I heard a bit of grumbling about how boring it was.

I have to admit that it might have been nice to have the party connected to the show or for there to have been a band to give you the feeling that the "event" had happened. But I have to say that it was awfully pretty and a nice reminder to stop and literally smell the roses, enjoy the champagne and take it all in.

I popped into the Tommy Hilfiger studio Monday afternoon for a preview of the collection that he will show on Thursday. The theme is relaxed glamour and the approximately $1,000 navy gown I saw was quite sophisticated and swank.

Hilfiger is also working on a Bravo show about American icons that will air Oct. 4. He promises that the show will in no way, shape or form morph into a reality competition in which contestants have to spin on their heads for a chance to fetch him coffee. Instead, the show is meant to celebrate the quirky and iconic elements of American popular culture.

I was rushing from Hilfiger's digs to the Proenza Schouler show because getting a cab proved so difficult and I do not travel through NYC with a car and driver, although I have no shame in throwing myself on the mercy of those who do. (Thank you, Conde Nast.)

So I get to Park Avenue and 63rd and dash inside to explain to the woman at the desk that I don't have my invitation. She says, Oh don't worry, just go on in. She's being so nice that I'm immediately suspicious. Such an easy-going manner? How unfashion-like! She realizes that I'm perplexed and says, "Aren't you here for the wine-tasting?"

Now I'll admit that for a split second I was tempted to inquire: Bordeaux? The fashion show was at Park and 67th. Whoops. Frankly, had I known those Proenza fellas were going to put sequined jumpsuits on the runway, I'd have snagged a bottle of pinot -- the better to make all that '80s fashion go down.

And finally. Marc Jacobs. He started on time! Two seasons in a row. Go Marc! Rock on with your muscled-out, creative, punctual self. The timely start, however, meant that people were rushing to their seats at the last minute, the terror of missing the show palpable as the crowds surged forward. Bodyguards were pressing in. Publicists were tumbling. Feet were being crushed. And I got pushed off my share of the bleacher and knocked between the knees of the nice man behind me who, alas, was not some hunky actor or a mogul or even a dude with his very own car and driver.

And So It Begins

The spring 2009 fashion season is upon us and there was a long list of shows and presentations over the weekend. I wish I could say that things got off to a rocking good start, but no. Slow and steady.

Miguel Adrover: back in the game. (AP)Enlarge Image

I'm looking forward to the shows that typically have something provocative - or at least surprising - to say: Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs, etc. By the way, was I the only person deeply disturbed by the photograph of Jacobs in the recent New Yorker style issue? He's posing in his skivvies like a piece of classical statuary.

It's a little, oh, what's the word I'm looking for? Self-reverential? But I'm sure the collection will be pure dee-lite. Can't wait. And wait. And wait.

Designer Miguel Adrover is back in the fashion game. He was hired by the organic, save-the-planet fashion house Hess Natur. I had a sneak peak at some of his ideas for spring in his third floor walk-up-and-up-and-up studio, and they were astonishing. He sculpted figures out of reclaimed wood and the clothes were displayed on them like works of art. More on the collection in my upcoming story, but it's nice to have Miguel back with his intriguing bag of tricks.

Andre peddles 1920s prep. (Getty)Enlarge Image

Also joining the fashion game is Andre Benjamin/Andre 3000 of Outkast fame. He launched his menswear line Benjamin Bixby, at Barneys New York on Thursday night. There weren't any models, just cocktails and hors d'oeuvres and the clothes on hangers and Andre in a straw hat. He was inspired by 1920 college football players and so the collection has a preppy vibe. There are wide wale corduroy slacks, polo shirts embroidered with a hot air balloon insignia and alpaca overcoats that made me itch just looking at them.

Andre - because we're on a first name basis after our five-minute conversation - explained that the direction of the line will change each season. He's financing the line himself - yee-ouch! - and is feeling the financial and emotional stress of being a new brand. Even celebrities struggle to deliver their merchandise to stores on time. And no, he has not given up music. Thank goodness. The line isn't exclusive to Barneys but should also be available at Neiman Marcus.

One Small Step Toward Diversity

I have spent no small amount of time writing on this blog and in the newspaper about the lack of diversity on the runway. I've written about the efforts by industry veteran Bethann Hardison to impress upon the fashion industry the importance of thinking broadly when casting their runway shows. I've also mentioned that designer Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent letters to designers reminding them that they are part of a global industry. I'm happy to report there has been progress.

One of the design houses that was held up as a major offender - for having a homogenous crew of white models - was Calvin Klein. I don't know how many times photos of last season's finale have been reproduced as evidence of what's wrong with the industry when it comes to diversity.

Black model Liya Kebede on the Calvin Klein runway (Maria Valentino for The Washington Post)

But at the show Thursday evening, lo and behold, the black model Liya Kebede was on the runway. Good for you Liya and bravo to designer Francisco Costa. Sure, it would be nice to have a veritable United Nations on the runway. But this is fashion and it's all about personal vision, not we-shall-overcome. I'm happy to see that Costa's vision has gotten a little broader. Doesn't that just make you feel all warm and fuzzy?

Many other runways also had a black model or two. In fact, the black model Jourdan Dunn was practically one of the stars of the runway this time around. It didn't look like any designer had to compromise his or her creative vision to do the right thing, either. They were able to convey boho chic, rich socialite, and even creepy cypher without freezing out an entire group of women. Yes, indeed, we can all manage to get along.

By the way, the New York fashion shows end today. I'll be going to Sean John and then Marc "I don't have a clock that works" Jacobs. Marc's show is scheduled for 7 p.m. Here's hoping that it starts by 8. Cheers!

One Small Step Toward Diversity

I have spent no small amount of time writing on this blog and in the newspaper about the lack of diversity on the runway. I've written about the efforts by industry veteran Bethann Hardison to impress upon the fashion industry the importance of thinking broadly when casting their runway shows. I've also mentioned that designer Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent letters to designers reminding them that they are part of a global industry. I'm happy to report there has been progress.

One of the design houses that was held up as a major offender - for having a homogenous crew of white models - was Calvin Klein. I don't know how many times photos of last season's finale have been reproduced as evidence of what's wrong with the industry when it comes to diversity.

Black model Liya Kebede on the Calvin Klein runway (Maria Valentino for The Washington Post)

But at the show Thursday evening, lo and behold, the black model Liya Kebede was on the runway. Good for you Liya and bravo to designer Francisco Costa. Sure, it would be nice to have a veritable United Nations on the runway. But this is fashion and it's all about personal vision, not we-shall-overcome. I'm happy to see that Costa's vision has gotten a little broader. Doesn't that just make you feel all warm and fuzzy?

Many other runways also had a black model or two. In fact, the black model Jourdan Dunn was practically one of the stars of the runway this time around. It didn't look like any designer had to compromise his or her creative vision to do the right thing, either. They were able to convey boho chic, rich socialite, and even creepy cypher without freezing out an entire group of women. Yes, indeed, we can all manage to get along.

By the way, the New York fashion shows end today. I'll be going to Sean John and then Marc "I don't have a clock that works" Jacobs. Marc's show is scheduled for 7 p.m. Here's hoping that it starts by 8. Cheers!

Raising Malawi

I realized I was in the wrong business sometime around 11 p.m. Wednesday, after burlesque performer Dita von Teese, who was one of the guests at the charity dinner I attended, bid about $400,000 for four Madonna concert tickets, business class plane tickets to the concert and a chance to take an aerobics dance class with the pop star.

Salma Hayek and husband, Francois-Henri Pinault (REUTERS/Lucas Jackson)

The event was a fundraising dinner and concert hosted by Madonna to raise money for Malawi's orphans and for UNICEF. Those who keep track of celebrity familial issues may recall that Madonna is raising a litle boy from Malawi, who she originally intended to adopt until it turned out the boy's father had a problem with that. Anyway, Madonna has focused her considerable star wattage on raising awareness for the poverty-stricken nation and getting help for the many orphans.

The event was on the lawn of the United Nations under a tent that had been erected for the occasion. I arrived after cocktails had ended because I was being the dutiful little worker bee and also had to take a moment to put on heels and lipstick. My tardiness meant that I had to proceed directly to dinner - the bar was closed! - and did not have the opportunity to properly peruse the crowd for celebrities.

I had a splendid time sitting with the folks from Saks Fifth Avenue as well as the shoe god Christian Louboutin. During the auction, which was co-hosted by Chris Rock, the lights were turned up and I was able to get a better look at the crowd.

Several tables away I spied Tom Cruise, who was bidding on a sports package that involved playing soccer with David Beckham. He lost out to someone on the far side of the room who ponyed up $300,00 and change. Good Lord.

Salma Hayek was in the room. She gave birth about five minutes ago and already looks fab-u-lous. The baby's daddy is Francois-Henri Pinault, the chairman of PPR, which is the parent company of Gucci. Madonna's daughter Lourdes egged her mother on to bid on a package that included hanging out with Zac Efron from "High School Musical," but it slipped through her grasp.

All of this glamour was underwritten by Gucci, which has opened a big store in Trump Tower. Which reminds me to mention that The Donald was there with The Wife and The Daughter. He bid on a fancy wine package, which, if I recall correctly, he got for the bargain price of about $200,000. Really, I've got to invent something ... or spend a lot more time playing the lottery.

Although I had the company credit card in my evening bag, I thought better of bidding on the deluxe trip to the Maldives. I don't recall how much that went for. By then, it was all Monopoly money to me. By the time I rolled out the door, Rihanna was on stage admonishing folks to "shut up and drive."

Raising Malawi

I realized I was in the wrong business sometime around 11 p.m. Wednesday, after burlesque performer Dita von Teese, who was one of the guests at the charity dinner I attended, bid about $400,000 for four Madonna concert tickets, business class plane tickets to the concert and a chance to take an aerobics dance class with the pop star.

Salma Hayek and husband, Francois-Henri Pinault (REUTERS/Lucas Jackson)

The event was a fundraising dinner and concert hosted by Madonna to raise money for Malawi's orphans and for UNICEF. Those who keep track of celebrity familial issues may recall that Madonna is raising a litle boy from Malawi, who she originally intended to adopt until it turned out the boy's father had a problem with that. Anyway, Madonna has focused her considerable star wattage on raising awareness for the poverty-stricken nation and getting help for the many orphans.

The event was on the lawn of the United Nations under a tent that had been erected for the occasion. I arrived after cocktails had ended because I was being the dutiful little worker bee and also had to take a moment to put on heels and lipstick. My tardiness meant that I had to proceed directly to dinner - the bar was closed! - and did not have the opportunity to properly peruse the crowd for celebrities.

I had a splendid time sitting with the folks from Saks Fifth Avenue as well as the shoe god Christian Louboutin. During the auction, which was co-hosted by Chris Rock, the lights were turned up and I was able to get a better look at the crowd.

Several tables away I spied Tom Cruise, who was bidding on a sports package that involved playing soccer with David Beckham. He lost out to someone on the far side of the room who ponyed up $300,00 and change. Good Lord.

Salma Hayek was in the room. She gave birth about five minutes ago and already looks fab-u-lous. The baby's daddy is Francois-Henri Pinault, the chairman of PPR, which is the parent company of Gucci. Madonna's daughter Lourdes egged her mother on to bid on a package that included hanging out with Zac Efron from "High School Musical," but it slipped through her grasp.

All of this glamour was underwritten by Gucci, which has opened a big store in Trump Tower. Which reminds me to mention that The Donald was there with The Wife and The Daughter. He bid on a fancy wine package, which, if I recall correctly, he got for the bargain price of about $200,000. Really, I've got to invent something ... or spend a lot more time playing the lottery.

Although I had the company credit card in my evening bag, I thought better of bidding on the deluxe trip to the Maldives. I don't recall how much that went for. By then, it was all Monopoly money to me. By the time I rolled out the door, Rihanna was on stage admonishing folks to "shut up and drive."

Good-looking Gap

Designer Patrick Robinson has moved hither and yon in the fashion industry. He worked for Giorgio Armani in Milan. Then he came to New York to design Anne Klein. Then he had his own collection. Then he was hired at Perry Ellis. Then he designed the Paco Rabanne collection in Paris. Then he did a small collection for Target. And I'm sure I have missed some pit stop along the way. Now he has turned up at the Gap, where he is the executive vice president of design. At long last, can it be? Has he found the perfect fit?

Dare I say "maybe"? Sunday afternoon I went to see his first Gap collection. He looks after both the men's and the women's collections and does all that other "visual" stuff that designers love to do and get all hot and bothered about when their bosses won't let them do it.

(Maria Valentino for The Washington Post)

The collection is filled with all the basic sportswear pieces you'd expect: jeans, cargo pants, t-shirts, camisoles, pullovers, etc. But it looks just a little cooler, more streamlined, a smidge more sophisticated. There are also shoes by Pierre Hardy for the Gap. I like the ones that remind me of the desert boots from back when desert boots were cool. Was that also when earth shoes were cool? Everyone was cooing over the faux shearlings. Don't call them vinyl! And Patrick was especially pleased with the sexier cargo pants and the wide leg pants in mattress ticking stripes.

(Maria Valentino for The Washington Post)

Of course, everything looked especially good because it was all layered and styled just so. Patrick will not come to your home and dishevel your t-shirt and dress you in that extra special way. Despite all the sexing up of the collection, Patrick says the prices didn't go up. Great fashion, he says, doesn't have to cost a lot. Ok, Patrick. Just remember that if you happen to turn up at Chanel one day.....